Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Hello all, I'm new here and new to rving.

My rig is 04 dynasty diamond with 400hp isl and tag axle on roadmaster chassis.

I bought it a few months ago, fuel tank and filters were crudded up with algae. Had them cleaned and want to keep them clean. What products have you guys had success with on your rigs to do algae prevention and fuel treatment?

Thanks,

Gw

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I use Howe's Diesel Treat with good results. Keep in mind that algae is caused by moisture in your fuel and using a Howe's product (there are several different ones) will help to eliminate that. You should also make sure that you store your coach with a full tank of fuel which will reduce the risk of moisture. Howe's products will also keep the injectors clean and improve you mileage. I started getting an extra 1.5 miles per gallon of fuel. Welcome aboard

Link to comment
Share on other sites

4 minutes ago, Steve Hepfer said:

I use Howe's Diesel Treat with good results. Keep in mind that algae is caused by moisture in your fuel and using a Howe's product (there are several different ones) will help to eliminate that. You should also make sure that you store your coach with a full tank of fuel which will reduce the risk of moisture. Howe's products will also keep the injectors clean and improve you mileage. I started getting an extra 1.5 miles per gallon of fuel. Welcome aboard

JF BioBor would be a good start.  Cummins used to recommend it be used with every fill up to prevent Algae Growth.

The Marine and other HD Diesel users recommend StarTron StarBrite Diesel additive.  If you shock or do the initial treatment of JF BioBor, folks have had great success with a “double treatments” of the StarTron,  Run it most of the way down, then keep using the BioBor.  I carry enough StarTron for a double treatment.  That way, I can treat if I get bad fuel.  I also carry a set of filters and a strap wrench.  
 

BTW.  If your filters were that bad, then get 2 or 3 Onan Genny fuel filters and a pair of the pinch pliers to assist,  Most folks have issues with them even after they change the fuel filters.  I would clean, per the above.  THEN…change the Genny and you should be good to go

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Little sip of Howes every fill up, in the 500 Cummins,6.7 litre toad, farm tractors,never had a fuel issue,echo every one else,always a full tank,but be careful with filling it up to much in extreme heat,expanding fuel and spill in campgrounds 

Wayne 

1999 Signature ceaser 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

For a change of pace I use Diesel Kleen with every fill up. Also, a good habit is to fill up each time before you put in storage (assuming you are not full time). Moisture in the form of condensate will form in your tank. Keeping the tank full helps to reduce head space thus less air and less chance of condensate in your tank.

  • Thanks 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

For fuel additive I use ATF (1 qt. Per 100 gal. of fuel) lubes injectors and seals in the fuel system  

NAPA has biocides available for algae.

MODERATOR's OVERRIDE.  See followup posts.  NOT doubting that "Fast" thinks this is OK and probably got a lot of good, seemingly, advice over the years. BUT, it is NOT recommended by CUMMINS, in fact, adamantly PROHIBITED. The Lift Pump method of refilling or using clean DIESEL is the only Cummins approved methods and any "AFT or other additives, not Cummins approved, will void the warranty"

 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Biobor JF to keep algae down.  It's supposed to lubricate also but who knows.  Instead of ml I wrote gal increments on the built-in measuring "cup".  EZ-PZ

ANYTHING is better than diesel roulette. 

Happy trails,

- bob

Link to comment
Share on other sites

29 minutes ago, cbr046 said:

Biobor JF to keep algae down.  It's supposed to lubricate also but who knows.  Instead of ml I wrote gal increments on the built-in measuring "cup".  EZ-PZ

ANYTHING is better than diesel roulette. 

Happy trails,

- bob

Bob,

Interesting post. When the Cummins tech sort of "coached me" prior to buying the Camelot with a stock VGT Exhaust Brake and then answered my questions about an upgraded Scepter that Monaco was building, but popped in the same ISL425, except it was destined for a Dynasty...and they had no stock ISL425's around....and I was confused...his FINAL COMMENT.  Use JF Biobor....RELIGIOUSLY. We are NOT supposed to recommend any additive, but you will be a happy owner and have less problems if you always add the proper amount at fillup and aglae will never be an issue.

That was the final word and my full understanding of it. You comment about the "improved lubricity" got me to reading.  I can't comment on the "added advantages of the BioBor"...except to say it is a small, minute price, to pay...based on the concentration required, to prevent Algae and some filter issues and a "GOD FORBID"....STOP and CHANGE the filters.  I have had a friend that had to do that and over the years we have had many that had to make roadside repairs....so PM and being able to DRIVE ON are what I wanted.

The only other thing....and again NOT TO REFUTE is that there have been several discussions and threads here on "best diesel additive".  I joined in on a few with some real world experience from a fleet of INDY racing trucks that were sponsored by Lucas and the team's drivers were meticulous and they reported favorable improvements....same engines....run for a few months with Lucas... Improved MPG and "pep".  Quit and switch to another one....the results were the same...stop using and it went down. So, I religiously used Lucas for at least 8 years.  Then the various threads and a lot of info and discussion switched me over to "Brand B".  Then, I saw no personal change...and the other member that was doing the same and I concluded, IIRC, that there didn't seem to be any advantage.

THEN, there was a long discussion about

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0176R5XYC/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1 

I switched over based on the comments and the logic and the reputations of the folks. I CAN see a difference.  

SO...my simplistic solution.  I use about 2/3's of the Opti-Lube XPD.  I figure full strength is more "Rinse and repeat".  I then add in the correct amount of JF BioBor so that my add is simple.  X.XX OZ of my blend per 10 Gallons.  Having them premixed in a graduated 32 OZ squirt (old Lucas) bottle is simple.  It has worked for me.

NOW, I find out, thanks to your keen eye, that the JF BioBor may also be helping.  Not gonna change...but happy to know that.

Thanks again for pointing out something that I did not know but was routinely using for one purpose and may have benefits for another.

This is ALSO my "comment" about additives.  As much as I have invested and as much as it will cost to fix something...and as much displeasure it would be to have to change fuel filters, the mixture keeps me happy.

THE OTHER SIDE....the Genny's filters are even more persnickety....and I don't want to have to crawl under with pinch pliers and change them...and Mr. AquaHot should burn cleaner....but others might disagree....

  • Thanks 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Everyone, I appreciate the help. I've done commercial and industrial electrical work for 28 years and in the process have been around a lot of equipment, figured I would be good to go on the dp equipment... boy was I wrong. Definitely no shortage of opportunity to learn on these things.

  • Haha 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

46 minutes ago, Mondyndia said:

Everyone, I appreciate the help. I've done commercial and industrial electrical work for 28 years and in the process have been around a lot of equipment, figured I would be good to go on the dp equipment... boy was I wrong. Definitely no shortage of opportunity to learn on these things.

Yup, I was around diesel equipment my whole career and I'm still learning stuff.  I'm glad my rig was before emissions "stuff", one less thing I need to worry about.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Old trucker tips are just that: OLD. Today's Diesels are nothing like a 30 year old vehicle that is mechanical. A typical OTR truck engine will go way over 500 , 000 miles before needing an inframe. Although they may have other problems with pollution eqpt. There is no data showing that ATF helps lubricate your injectors 

 

 ATF contains a mild abrasive for the clutches. Should never be added to your fuel.

 

Edited by birdshill123
Link to comment
Share on other sites

I treat the diesel tank on every 2nd-3rd fill-up with a mixture of Diesel Kleen & Biobor-JF.

If I am parking the coach for any length of time it will always get a treatment and fill-up just before reaching my long-term destination.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I keep a quart squeeze bottle handy. I put in 6 ounces of JF Biobor and fill the bottle with OptiLube Summer. I squeeze in about 4-8 ounces every fill up. Probably on the light side of the of the recommended dose but consistency seems to be the key. Started doing this after reading about other folks’ issues on “Old Monacoers” and never had an issue. I think Chris T recommended the OptiLube brand; I had tried Lucas and maybe one other brand before.

As an aside, I doubt that any additive I’ve tried has changed MPG one iota. I did get a minuscule increase from the “Ugly Fix” altimeter fooler, but the biggest “increase” in MPG I got was from up-sizing the drive axle tires to change the revs per mile by about 3%. 😉

Link to comment
Share on other sites

3 hours ago, birdshill123 said:

Old trucker tips are just that: OLD. Today's Diesels are nothing like a 30 year old vehicle that is mechanical. A typical OTR truck engine will go way over 500 , 000 miles before needing an inframe. Although they may have other problems with pollution eqpt. There is no data showing that ATF helps lubricate your injectors 

 

 ATF contains a mild abrasive for the clutches. Should never be added to your fuel.

 

Moderator's PERROGATIVE.

The ATF is dubious and COULD cause engine issues. The HR dealer that did my maintenance was also a Chevrolet Commercial Truck Certified Dealership...sales and service. They charged for two quarts of ATF to "prefill" the filters. That ain't much. I called the Cummins dealer across town. The service guy went NUTS....I think he even called his buddy over there. NEVER, EVER add any ATF to the FUEL. The ATF was easier than storing a fuel container of diesel...and also meeting the local fire code.

Cummins said to either PREFILL with CLEAN Diesel or use the Lift Pump procedure and do NOT, EVER, EVER use ATF or any "other mess".

That seems pretty well documented.  NOW to the OP on the ATF. There is NO guarantee that the ATF will kill or hurt an engine.  But Cummins does NOT recommend...almost specifically prohibiting it and it would void the warranty. Do unto your own engine as you see fit and if you think it works...great.

BUT, The GIST>>> to ALL MEMBERS.... NO to the old wive's tale of ATF as a Diesel supplement.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I would add Biobor and Startron to a full diesel tank when I knew I wasn't going to use it for a while.  While traveling I'd use Biobor about every 3rd tank.   FWIW, we took a long trip in 2015 and then I started working on building a new house so the rig was parked other then short drives until 2020 (ya, 5 years but I did most of the work myself and had a short consulting job in between).  I needed fuel for my tractor so I decided to pump out the RV, ended up using ~85 gallons.  I never saw any sign of algae.  Fired the motorhome and all was good.  Put 10K on it last year. 

Last year I installed a FASS transfer pump which recirculates fuel into the tank which will keep it polished. 

After reading many posts of CAPS pump failures and recommendations of other types of additives (may have been here on the Monacoers site) I did buy a gallon of the Optilube XL earlier this year and will start using it.  A gallon is good for 1250 gallon so thats about ~10K miles equvalent based on my mileage. 

https://www.ebay.com/itm/264250995987

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Based on years of following this forum, I use the same cocktail as Tom Cherry: Opti-Lube XPF pre-dosed with Biobor JF EVERY time I fuel up.  I carry several pre-mixed containers dosed for half-fill ups and “full” fill ups. When I use up the Opti-Lube that I bought before I read the thread below, I’ll switch to Biobor MD + Biobor JF.

About twice a year I throw in the Startron Star-Brite diesel treatment instead.  Probably overkill and throwing away a little $$, but on the chance there’s a benefit in occasionally doing something a little different, and based on the collective wisdom of this group over many years, I do it… (Variety is the spice of life, right? 🤣)

There is another, quite detailed thread on the subject.  We have a member (@peakins) who is technical director for Hammonds Fuel Additives (Biobor) and has posted a lot of technical info and documents. If you want answers from someone who lives this every day, read this thread: 

 

  • Thanks 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

I have used Sta-bil diesel additive for over 10 years in my Motorhomes. I used It exclusively in my 5.9 Cummins and always kept a full tank when sitting for long periods. I used the gasoline version for decades in my home generator and lawn equipment and was amazed at how well it worked. I had a generator that sat for over two years during are move from Florida to Georgia and thought for sure it would be gummed up from sitting with fuel in it but it started right up no problem. My old Discovery started right up every time for 10 years no problems so that’s what I am sticking with for my Monaco. I did buy some Biobar JF to add from time to time as well. I think most of the additives will do a good job as long as it states it will remove moisture that’s the top priority for this bio diesel stuff we have to deal with now.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I'm an Opti Lube fan. Add every tank fill with a shot of Biobor in the warm weather. Never had an issue.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
×
×
  • Create New...