Tom Cherry

WELL....that solves that.  You have one of the few, if NOT the ONLY Dynasty with an Intellitec EMS.  PICTURES PLEASE.  Bill was a good electrician.  He did many things and knew a lot.  BUT, if he modified....and I remember vaguely, then NONE of us are really able to help you.  @Frank McElroy was closer to Bill and his "revisions" than anyone I know here....but there MAY be some folks that visited Bill or conversed with him and knew HOW or WHAT he did.
IF you DO have the Intellitec EMS, then it will be a BROWN panel (typcially).  There will also be this... SOMEWHERE....the REMOTE  pictured below...(doesn't control it) If you are conversant with trouble shooting....then pull the cover off the main panel and post a picture.  THAT will help us understand.  IF you DO have the Intellitec EMS, then there is a relay burned out on the control board.  When you take off the panel (main 50 A) cover, there is a printed Circuit Board in the lower right side.  That Board has relays and they go bad.  WHY....STUPID MONACO.  The board was designed for using the LOW VOLTAGE DC HVAC Thermostat wiring for turning ON or OFF the AC's when load shedding.  
NOPE...that was TOO MUCH TROUBLE.  Monaco use the 120 VAC relays.  OK....they are RATED OK.  OPPS....BILL WOULD PARROT THIS...  They were NOT designed for a full inductive (Motor running) Switching ON and OFF.  The contacts will burn up.  COMMON Occurrence.  The fix....depends on your knowledge.  Folks will actually just BYPASSS that relay and put power directly to the FRONT AC as it is, if Bill copied the shedding sequence...MEMORY....the last to be cut off.  SO, if you can follow the board....and download the manual, you just bypass that sucker and drive on.  
Now I won't even hazard a guess as to WHY Bill put it in.  You have, to the best of our knowledge...the ONLY Dynasty with a rear Bedroom Window unit.  
Frank will be your best source and contact him off line.  
PS...I sent you an email about the EDIT I did to your Profile and the need for you to fix something as I had to FORCE an entry to get it to save.
The old girl LIVES and RUNS....GOOD DEAL.  Welcome aboard.  You have a UNIQUE MH....

You have a COLE HERSEE.  I just helped out another member offline and called a former 2005 Exec owner with a good memory and knowledge.
There are TWO kinds of switches.  SPST = That one only has TWO LARGE STUDS.....it looks like yours.  The other is a DP (double pole) ST (single Throw) switch.  Your's does NOT look like that....
https://www.colehersee.com.au/product/battery-field-master/ This is the DPST version of it.  This switch WILL work....you just ignore the small terminals.  Simple as that....now small wires....no hook up....the main switch works the high current.
I went back to the ColeHersee webpage.  I could NOT find at SPST (assuming that you have no small wires attached....and I did not see them in the picture)....SO...if you order the above it will work....and be fine.
Hope this helps.  IF you find an aftermarket one on Amazon that works and fits....especially the SIZE of the studs....very important to get the hole diameter of the terminal matched to the stud diameter....then let us know...
@Frank McElroy the parts list only shows an M-750 for a switch.  The above is what was on the Execs and maybe more circa 2005.  The 2004 had the SINGLE or the NON Field contact switch.  The 2005 had (per the prints) the DPST version.... see the above link for the correct name and PN...
The correct PN for the Blue Seas that were used later on are
Dual Circuit - Two Large Studs and two small contacts....  6010 (Red) or the 6010200 (Black) 
Single Circuit - like on most Camelots and lower - Two Large Studs ONLY..... 6006 (Red) or 6005200 (Black).
Thanks.
Battery Cut Off switch 2005 Exec Nav.pdf

Krytox by Chemours GPL 205 Grease, 
I use that on the door and top seals on my Vette.  Been using it since 1998 and gone through 3 Vettes.  The local "Hot Rod & Restoration" club turned me on to it.  I use it about once every 2 years on the main door seal.  I HAVE used it on the slide seals.  Some recommend the AeroSpace 303 for them. That cuts down on UV deterioration.  Probably not a bad idea.  BUT for the critical door seal and air seal, the Krytox.  A little goes a LONG way.  I use my finger tip (it is NOT a carcinigen) and just keep smearing until my finger doesn't "slip" and there is not a shiny surface. This ain't like smearing on SunScreen....  LOL.  I have used it on other vehicles and quietened down the door seals.  A MUST for my Vette's T tops and the convertible top main seals.
That's my experience...

You are on the right track.  Just to set the record straight, I doubt you have the Intellitec EMS like there is on the LaPalma.  The Dynasty and up never, or to the best of my knowledge used them. Some Windsors did and a host of lower ends.  So….i am apprehensive about that.
Next….put this is AMAZON.  .Intellitec 00-00714-000 Auto Energy Selector Module
That is what you have, 100% confidence.  Look at the picture.  It is NOT on the roof or inside an HVAC duct.  It is in, sometimes behind a panel near the main breaker, or similar location to the main panel.  If you don’t see it, then start removing any thin panels…#2 square drive head.
Somewhere, in my memory….dangerous….I remember a poster saying his was under the bed or thereabouts.  Your prints will have it.  Scour the prints and find it.  Monaco on some models with more electrical devices that Edison could envision, put in multiples if you had electric cook tops or fireplaces.  It IS on a print and usually a note as to where….
BTW….not aimed at you, but for general information.
You can NOT get around the device.  It has one power lead in from the Rear AC/WD breaker.  It has two power out….normally closed to the Rear AC (memory) but when you turn on the WD, it “senses” a load and then turns OFF the rear AC.  We get folks that think there is a thermostat or power or whatever HVAC problem as they are not aware that the device exists.  There is also a NOTE in the owners manual.  It says, in effect.  TURN OFF THE REAR AC while using the WD.  What happens is that a normal WD load will cycle on and off resulting in multiple quick, high current loads…..this switch is not supposed to cycle like that or that quickly. That happens if you leave the rear AC ON.  That constant switching and abuse kills them.  We have many folks that have never had an issue….because they knew how to properly run their WD.  Likewise, we have had many folks that once they replaced one and followed the correct procedure….never an issue.  Most blame a “poor design”, but in reality, it was never meant to be a high current ON OFF switch.  In addition, whenever you run both, the contacts are switched at a high current, thus, they burn up. 
Also, unfortunately, even if you wanted to put in a high current DPDT selector switch or temporarily bypass….you gotta find it to do that.  Nothing can be done upstream or downstream to get AC….
Keep us posted.  You WILL find it….and a picture would be great as to where it is….

It is a AUTO RESETTABLE Circuit Breaker.  Northern Tool and Amazon are full of them.
You will need to go to your prints to find out the correct amperage....unless you can read it on the broken parts. 
I'm a bit confused.  You show one that appears to be intact.  But you have one that is broken.  You will have to see WHAT doesn't or is not working. 
The picture with all the "Copper" is called a BUSS.  That is on the HOUSE.  But, I can't tell from the picture where the broken device went. 
If you don't know or can't trace WHAT is was powering and want the correct value.  THEN, you need to check the wire size (on the load or downstream side). 
#14 - 15 A; #12 - 20 A; #10 - 30 Amp; # 8 - 40A; #6 - 50 A 
The fuse is usually to protect the wiring....not the device.  SO, look at the wire size stamped on the wire or peel back the insulation and get a pair of mics or calipers and check the diameter....or find a piece that looks the same (the stranded wire size...not the outside jacket) and compare.  That's the old fashioned and PURE LOGIC and NEC Code method....
Let us know.
 

Follow the rules.  Keep the system in the same mode.  It is NOT designed to work with different modes in different zones.  I suspect that is the issue.  Run the standard furnace test as i outlined.  If that works….drive on.   

Here is the original instructions for your step....or at least I think so.  If you have the COACH STEP.  I think, but might be wrong, that they supplied the single and two (3) step models for the Dynasty. IF this is NOT the correct one, then look in the file (big case) that hopefully you have that came with the Dynasty.  You can also look under the steps to see if the frame and the controller look the same.
IF you have the CoachStep, then you probably have the original CoachStep controller (Factory in Texas).  Lippert bought them out and moved to Indiana.  They discovered a design flaw in the module.  It could get Moisture in it and they then "potted" or sealed the module. That was the only change.
Somewhere along the way, Lippert bought Kwikee....and then merged them.  
FWIW, if you have the CoachStep multiple step model, I THINK they were recalled for fear of a stud or a bushing or nut weld failing.  Many folks have these and inspected theirs....
As the the Movement....there is a proximity switch that also gets wet and fails. Read the manual. 
NOW, the WARNING.  If the steps MOVE a bit but never LOCK IN.  DISREGARD ALL USE.  That means the plastic drive gear in the motor has stripped.  That is dangerous as the step will collapse or move when weight is put on and many of us are a bit older and don't have the FALL PREVENTION reflexes.  Tie it off with a bungee.
You MIGHT lube up the step with TriFlow or even WD40 and then sort of tap on the linkage with a hammer.  If the linkage is dry or needs some "motivation", it might clear up....
Good Luck
CoachStepElectric - Instructions - Stromberg Carlson.pdf

Google AM Equipment.  Select Windshield Wipers.  That gets you to the section and they show motors and such.  Scroll to the bottom.  Select RV….YOU should be here.  https://www.amequipment.com/rv-replacement-parts-guide    Scroll down to Monaco. Your blade is a 302-1320. That is a “standard blade” with a picture.  
From what I learned plus working with AM on a problem and other vendors, I would NOT put on 32” blades.  The “competition” says they replace many AM arms and the 32” design is a little “weak”.  AM replaced mine many years afterwards as I discovered that their arm dimensions did not meet the SAE specifications or dimensions.  Actually wasn’t their fault. Anco (now strictly an importer) was the supplier for the arms and the ones they built for AM were a blueprint error where the Engineer combined 2 slightly different SAE Standards into their PN, BUT, the dimensions were off and they said it was the “larger” SAE size.  I ordered new blades.  Would not fit.  I checked the Arm “U” mount.  I pulled the SAE prints.  Different.  They said no way.  But shipped me new arms and blades and i shipped back my old arms and old blades (OEM) and their new ones. They finally said.  YES…. 
I worked for the parent company that owned Anco and had been sent to two of their factories on a special assignment (process engineering and environmental).  Being an old manufacturing engineer I talked to their folks….so i had a bit of a background.
NOW for all reading this, my Camelot used an updated design without the bolt that was on the 2009’s.  To get the SAE prints, I conned a competitor and we “chatted”.
BOTTOM LINE.  I only use 28” blades on my Camelot so as not to stress or overwork the 32” arms.  You still see all the driving area you need.
Odds are you can buy 28” Bosch or Michelin or any good brand name 28” blades at Walmart or AutoZone or NAPA and there will be interchangeable clips or snap in mounts that will use your Bolt design mount.  The biggest thing is to put down a small tarp or piece of plastic when you unscrew the bolts and not DROP the nut or maybe the washers.  Never change over a “grassed area”.  I had your design on my Winnebago….don’t ask how i a learned about such…. LOL.
OR…ORDER the AM….good luck.  BTW.  If you purchase two locally…look at two different brands….you may see one seems to be de sighted with more “meat” or looks better engineered.  Buy that one.  Install both.  If no fit issues….go back and get 2 spares and put in the back of the overhead cabinet above the bed.  Find new bolts…NAPA may have or look on Amazon .  Bag them and keep, literally, for a rainy day when one breaks.  I carry a slicker and had to change out a rain in a hurricane quality downpour.  Thus, my advice is hands on field and not a rocking chair dissertation….double LOL

FOLLOW UP.  MYSTERY SOLVED.
The 10 Amp Refrigerator breaker is correct.  Turning it off kills the Gas Heater electric receptacle.
The ICEMAKER line is wired directly into the Washer Dryer Outlet.  It does Not bet power, as it is supposed to, from the Inverter.  WHO KNOW WHO or why it is wires that way…but now we know WHY there is no ICEMAKER power from the receptacle when on Inverter.
For the interim, as long as Steve is on Generator or Shore….all works.  He has a temporary line from an internal (inverter powered) running the Samsung….as that was our test.
He is going to swap out the old GFCI with an approved 20 A new GFCI.  His coach was not configured where the Icemaker circuit and sometimes the TV and such can be moved from the LOAD side and placed on the LINE side….which is how it should have been all along to prevent false positives from tripping the GFCI.
He does NOT do or plan a lot of boon docking.  He can run the Generator for an hour or so, on and off while traveling to keep the Samsung cold.  We discussed many options as a long range solution…too many for here.  The bottom line is that even if the ICEMAKER circuit was originally downstream of the GFCI….he still hs the potential for false positives.  He will look at a couple of easy and inexpensive ways to be able to switch the switch the Samsung line from the ICEMAKER circuit to the Inverter circuit….
That’s it.  What he thought worked with the Norcold, did not work….
 

@Les Hurdle
As a moderator, i see a lot more things….I don’t see any flags or stars.  Maybe that means on your screen that you are the initiator.  Nothing that I did nor would do…. From a “housekeeping” or “good practice” standpoint, we, or at least I, like to have only ONE issue per topic.  This one has two and should have been separated into two new topics.  I read it and decided that doing that, based on my Ipad and time constraints was not a major issue….so I didn’t nor did i send you a PM requesting that in the future.  In other words….it weren’t broke so I didn’t fix it….as far as my screens go, there are no “background comments or highlighting….
@Frank McElroy & @Scotty Hutto are the “backroom” software or “webmasters”.  I don’t have the skills and they do so I will report some funky things, as other members do, and let those wizards fix or explain.
do a screen shot from your phone or tablet showing the “stars” and post it or PM them and they might be able to answer your question….I haven’t a clue…

You have a problem with an Intellitec switching device.  The Dynasty has one, sometimes TWO or three devices that will determine WHERE your power is "needed" and they are installed based on Monaco's logic...if you get my drift. They fail, sometimes often...but eventually DO fail.  Here is how it works. Your prints will show them...but the Dynasty Prints (I have been in and out of the 2008 files) lists so many options.  BUT the base is that the Washer Dryer takes priority....so when you try to run the REAR AC....the poor thing just pops back and forth and eventually dies..
If you have other high current devices, you may have MORE.  Only your particular configuration and such will dictate how many.  I THINK I have seen 3...but that might be on a SIg.  The Dynasty and Exec and Sig all use the SAME logic for the W/D and Rear AC...then build on that if had an all electric coach.  OK>>>>here is how it works....
In the case of the REAR AC, the Intellitec (AES PN 00-00714-000) device acts like a transfer switch.  It is (look at your prints) wired with the Washer (Dryer?) as the MAIN or Normally Closed device.  If there is NO current draw on the device...as in the Washer is NOT running, then if there is current draw (turning on the AC), then it detects that and switches to the Rear AC.  People often make the mistake (they were not aware of it) of trying to do laundry (or use some other device) and then the AC will keep switching ON and OFF depending on the cycle. 
These AES are either under the bed or somewhere in the rear area.  They have TWO AC Lines.  The way to test is to take the VOM and check the INCOMING power (should be on the box and you can download the PDF for them).  If you have AC incoming....(from the Rear or maybe marked REAR/WD circuit breaker), then it is PROBABLY the device.  Folks have just abandoned their laundry for a while and used three wire nuts (Yellow) and WITH THE BREAKER OFF....wire nutted or connected the AC directly to the incoming line....
That's it.  Others will have to help you locate it if you can't find it.  @Frank McElroy has the same MH and you can PM offline and he will, as usual, help out.  I learned all this from posting and helping and having him as a tutor....
I copied this from a previous topic.  It explains it way beyond me retyping.
As LONG as you have power on the Circuit Breaker...ODDS ARE...you Intellitec has "bit the dust".  Folks usually replace (Ebay and other online) and THEN write a NOTE to NEVER, EVER Run the Rear AC whilst doing laundry....as the constant recycling causes failure.
Good Luck...
The AES box can be opened and wiring is easily accessible.  You can switch the black primary and secondary wire position and the A/C should work.  No need to move the white or ground wires as they are common.
00-00714-000 For Sale on eBay
Automatic Energy Select Switch
Date datasheet created: 19/04/2013
Intellitec’s Automatic Energy Select Switch (AESS) is designed to be used in RVs to share the power available from a single circuit breaker between two large loads. The AESS applies power to both appliances until the primary load is turned on. It then removes power from the secondary load
to prevent the circuit breaker from being overloaded. This function is particularly useful for sharing power between the microwave oven and another “sheddable” or postpone-able appliance, such as the washer/dryer, or water heater.
Typically, this function has performed with selector switches, forcing the owner to manually switch between the two appliances.
The selecting function is particularly useful when the
microwave oven is the principal load. Power is always available to it, assuring that the customer can use the microwave whenever required and it’s internal clock remains operating. While the microwave is in use, the function of the secondary load is postponed until the microwave is finished.
Features
• Allows two 20 Amp loads to operate from a single 20 Amp breaker
• Automatically switches between the two loads as the demand requires
• Meets NECsection 551-42(c) for adding breakers over the maximum limit of five and allowing for more than two, thermostatically controlled appliances.
• Minimizes circuit breaker tripping.
• Eliminates manual appliance select switches.
AESS OPERATION
The underlying principle of the AESS is that certain appliances used in an RV, such as the microwave
oven, hair dryer, or toaster need to always be available, when the owner wants to use them. These are “on demand” appliances. The use of others, such as the washer/dryer, water heater, or air conditioner can be delayed to a slightly later time with little inconvenience to the owner. These are
postpone-able loads. Postponing the use of these
appliances leaves enough power to operate the “on
demand” appliances.
Power is supplied to the AESS from a single circuit breaker. An “on demand” load is connected as the primary load and a “shed-able” load is connected as the secondary load. When power is applied to the RV, it is supplied to both loads. When the primary load is turned off and at least 45 seconds has
passed, power to the secondary load will be reapplied.
How it works
The Automatic Energy Select Switch controls power to two appliance loads. One appliance on the primary load is connected to the primary output and a shed-able appliance is connected to the secondary output. The output to the secondary load is carried through a relay.
When the shore cord is first plugged in, power flows through the AESS to the primary load and the relay is quickly closed, supplying power to the secondary load. When the primary load is turned off for more than 45 seconds, the power is re-applied to it.
Automatic Energy Select Switch
Date datasheet created:
19/04/2013
Specifications
Part Number: 00-00714-000
Ambient Temperature Range: -40C to +40C
Operating Environment: Out of direct weather
Delay before reapplying power: 45 seconds
Typical Wiring Diagram
Controled Load: One, OEM selectable
Relay Rating: (1) AC - 1 HP, 20A, 120 VAC 60 HZ
U.S. Patents: 4499385, 4617472

I went ahead and contacted the former general manager of one of the largest Monaco owned warranty and service and repair centers.  Many old timers know of whom i speak.  I told him the basics.  Tires correct size.  Assumed proper inflation and not overloading…..but that was going to be verified.  Also that a few Dynasy owners of that vintage had has mis matched inners and some had spacers on both axles. And that one side was ugly and the other just missed.  Sent him the two pictures.  He, as usual, popped back….promptly.  This is the most knowledgeable individual that i know with Monaco’s history as well as having to fix assembly goofs or mistakes in deign.  I suspect Scott Zimmer of Source will parrot this also….
Good Afternoon, 
I would make sure the h frame is not cracked and allowed the axle to shift. I would also suspect the vehicle may have been driven with under inflated tires. Tire size could have been 275/70 275/75 or 295/80.  
If all is good, Spacers are an option. Just have to make sure there is enough stud. 
Probably under inflation. 
Thanks
Thats it…..

We don’t have a copy of the Cheetah prints in our wiring diagram files.  You need to look at the slide ptint.  Generically, this is how the system works.  Am on ipad, so researching without my trusty dual screen PC is tough.
Control power for the switch has three interlocks or safeties.  
parking brake has a ground switch….that is what turns on the “idiot” light on the dash or display.  That is also tied Into the rest of the interlocks.  If you don’t have the idiot light on, when the ignition is on (brake set and on), then the switch under the brake control is bad or a loose wire. Typically Monaco did it this way…. bay door switches.  They were for the doors that swung up rather that opened like a cabinet door.  Each switch was in series….so a bad switch or a bay door not latched and closing the switch killed the circuit. ignition interlock relay. There is a normally closed Bosch relay.  If the ignition switch is “ON”….as in could be running, the relay gets energized.  That kills the control power to the switches…. OK….there is typically a 5 - 10 A fuse (Dynasties have a mini circuit breaker) that is on the HOUSE system.  That power goes to the Bosch relay.  Then, assuming the ignition interlock relay (normally closed) is not energized, then that control voltage goes to the center pin(s) of the slide switch(es).  When you depress, the correct signal goes to your controller.  In reality, if there is a hydraulic system, that signal may go to a controller module or a series of valves and motor start solenoid. In your case, the Controller gets higher current power and that runs the motor(s). Thus, no (separate) incoming signal(s) from the switches….no Joy.
We (members and moderators) cannot tell you the exact source or which fuse (mini circuit breaker) supplies the switches.  BUT it DOES go through a Bosch ignition relay.
if you or another Cheetah member has the prints in the back of your manual, if they are scanned, we sure would like a copy for the files and then we can provide more specifics on where the initial power comes from..
Good luck and keep us updated.  We are getting more Cheetah members.
PS….If you do a search for “wiring” and use the dropdown and select “files”, you see what we have.  I know that the 2005/6 Camelot/Scepters use the same slide control.  I “SUSPECT” that the 2004 Windsors “might” be similar.  So, if you don’t have the manual and prints, look there.
See my post….you don’t have a “solenoid” per say….you should a standard 5 pin Bosch plug in relay.  It is the “slide ignition” interlock device. Your prints will be the best bet. Some are up front in electrical bay. Some are in the back.  Some are behind the panel where the switches are located.  ODDS ARE….you lost a fuse (mini breaker?).  IF your ignition Switch was OFF and if you had(have) a Parking Brake light ON (with the ignition switch ON), then the the relay is should NOT be energized and would not be the issue.  Remember, it is a normally closed one.
my hunch…..fuse…but finding it based on the manual or your prints may take some time.  I would not go chasing a bad relay, which is in the normally closed position, without verifying the power source….
Hope this helps 

JB Weld, the clear kind, should also work.  It has body and is a great reinforcing overlay.  I doubt you would have to add a supplementary clamp or bracket.

Short of having a mobile tire dealer bring you rubber?  Probably an 11.  Most folks start looking skeptically at 6 - 7 years.  As an attorney would instruct you….”well that depends”.  Truck tire dealer may be more reliable when looking at tires on a trailer.  If the tires had not been driven at least every 3 months, then there is no “new” or UV resistancy in the tires.  Driving periodically and heating up causes the the tires to secrete an oil that protects the surface.  Were the tires covered? Was the MH stored indoors?  What was the environment like?
Bottom line, there is a great risk of a blowout or RUD (Rapid Unscheduled Disintegration).  I personally would not drive them much above 45 MPH and no more than 50 mikes to a tire dealer.
EDIT.  I googled “what age should you replace a motor home's tires“  max of 8 was the highest and more along 7    So….I’ll stick with 6-7….
Toyo seems to be a favored brand now.  I and many others, including one more staff member, are running them.  Be sure to check the MH’s tire placard for the proper size and load range.  Many foks have found that that sometimes folks, unknowingly, put on the wrong size.  Michelins had side wall cracking and folks “may” nit have been that happy.  I was a Bridgestone proponent but their top rated MH tires started to have some “unplanned” outer rib wear issues.  Rarely did we see a Michelin or a Bridgestone blow out…but it will obviously happen….
There is also a data plate that lists the ratings of the front and rear axles.  Divide the front axle rating by 2.  Look for a tire in the size and weight range and see what the inflation pressure would be to get the properl front axle load rating.  That varies by tire…. But the max up front, using Monaco’s “logic” would be 115 PSI and thr minimum would be 90 PSI.  Do the same for the rear, except use the “DUAL - in pairs” rating.
I should not have been as flippant…..but tires over 10 years old is a very dangerous situation…..tires that old on a car are probably worse….stick to the 6-7 year rule and the only push 8 with optimum conditions and many are fearful of that.
When Monacoers started circa the supper 2000’s or so, the Goodyear tires would have catastrophic failures and there were many reports of lives lost.  So, maybe we old timers are a little more paranoid and not willing to risk our family or the families of the motoring public to excessive risks.

NOPE.  The issue is a poor design by Monaco.  if you changed out the dedicated circuit breaker in your home panel for your refrigerator to a GFCI, OR if you replaced the receptacle with a GFCI, odds are it will drive you crazy.  Refrigerators have small heaters in the doors for defrost and your icemaker has a heating coil in the mold.  Eventually or even right from the factory, there is a “leak” or some minute milliamp current if flowing through the ceramic insulation in those heaters.  The GFCI interprets that as a “unsafe”condition and you get a false positive “trip”.  That is why the NEC specifically does not allow (now some idiots in some municipalities that think they are smarter than UL & NEC have been known to require it and after the inspection, the electrician removes it) a GFCI on a dedicated REFRIGERATOR or MICROWAVE circuit.
What the fix is, is what I posted.  Check the GFCI.  Replace as they get tired and crotchety.  Test and isolate the icemaker receptacle and put on the LOAD or top side.
Some folks can’t do that as Monaco cheats and ran a loop.  Their solution is a separate 800 - 1000 W Auxiliary inverter….but it must NOT have a GFCI outlet.  Some have replaced the GFCI outlet and resolved the issues.
This is a discussion that dates back to 2009 when I joined and folks are concerned over the “safety” of moving the icemaker circuit to the load side, where it should have been, to meet NEC, in the first place.
Hope this helps….

I am a retired Engineer and former Safety & Environmental Director for a division of a Fortune 500 company that had 10 divisions….  I would never recommend a product that I was not familiar with….from both use and safety.  My division moved from last to first in 3 years (internal peer audits and “lack of compliance” data)…then I was asked to take over Safety….took 3 years to go from last to first.  I am very cautious about recommending products where untrained individuals can put themselves at risk or others or create situations that are unsafe.  I was also in charge of making sure that all our packaging, especially Prop 65 items, were compliant for California.  This is a California product and is sold there…
Read the label.  Follow the directions.  Use in a vented (ceiling fan or window open) area.  I use it in my kitchen in the winter and never an issue.  Gloves are suggested….but this is not a “respirator” or a skin rash product.  You have a solvent based, not water based finish.  It needs a certain amount of a solvent product to loosen up any stains or residues and such.  This is far from a “stripper”….either high MEK or high Solvent or High Alkaline based…
This is a “glorified” Pride or Old English furniture Polish, except it contains a little more solvent and has a quick drying oil stain that leaves a shiny finish.  It does a great job and there is no residue like a plain furniture Polish,….it will wear off, eventually, but will last for years.  I had to recover several doors of our kitchen cabinets where a professional “home cleaning franchise” used one of their “100%” natural wood cleaning products and streaked and almost ruined them.  I have been a furniture restorer as well since in college in 1965….and done more OAK than anything else.  

The only thing I left out was that if there is a stubborn residue…it happens, then 0000 steel wool, used with the grain, works well.  You asked for a cleaner and restoration product as your cabinets were dried out.  Water based or natural, except for wax or an oil (petroleum based) will not.  if you have ever “reoiled” an oil finished item, such as older walnut and gun stocks and such, then you know that boiled linseed oil is the product,  This works a lot like that….and is as safe to use.

You run the risks of using products like Simple Green and water on your stained and varnished products.  Find a natural product,,,,but test on the back side.  That will clean,  but then find a wax or a polish.  I would have been remiss if I had purchased a product without reading and then checking the MSDS Sheet…required by my own protocols….and let seemingly untrained labor use it,  Don’t drink or directly inhale it.  There are more warnings on it than one can imagine. We live in a litigious society where products are inundated with warnings…..due to lawsuits or misuse or common sense….I know that from my job.
I understand your concerns….so, either try it on the back or seek a more natural, water based product.  But, if you don’t feel safe and are concerned about the “ugly” sounding chemicals, then choose another method.  I have recommended this, as a member and moderator since 2009, and never received any negative feedback or issues.  Much to the contrary…”IT WORKS”….
As an aside, I just reviewed the MSDS sheet, again,  and also the label instructions.  Basically, I confess that I don’t wear safety glasses when I use it nor latex gloves. BUT..I did have my crew (plant wide safety glasses….as well as gloves for any product handling other than water…yes….we WERE that careful).  
That’s it.  If you do a test and don’t like it….then you will, as you do with any solvent based or petroleum product, like gasoline or motor oil or brake fluid…, use the local Hazardous Waste public forgiveness day to dispose of it and do NOT just throw in the trash….
 

From a previous post….06 Endeavor, but PB function and circuits are identical 
Shortly after we bought our 2006 Endeavor I started the engine and prepared to leave for a short trip to the dealership. When I released the parking brake and put the transmission in D, the alarm starting beeping. I put shifted to N and reset the brake. Tried again, same result. I tried releasing the brake pedal to see if the brake was actually set or the alarm was faulty.
I found the problem after some time was spent troubleshooting. The first was the material of the panel where the release valve was mounted. Over time, the panel had weakened and small I noticed some small cracks. The second was an intermittent Nason switch. The valve portion of the assembly was fine, but the cracked panel would flex and not allow the actuator to open the switch on the bottom of the valve when the brake was released.
A friend and I fashioned a metal mounting plate for the brake release that spread the pressure over a much larger area. That corrected the problem.
My suggestion would be to check the mounting  panel to see if it is sturdy. If so, then pull that panel out and test the switch. You can get a replacement valve/switch assembly from Veurink's in Grand Rapids, MI if that is the culprit.
THE OTHER ISSUE, but I don’t know the circuit that well.  Many times the rear drums will rust to the drum and you shift into reverse to break them loose.  But I thought that did NOT impact the circuit.
Odds are, bad or failing Nassan switch.  Look at yout prints…

Find your prints.  Determine if you have a Bosch relay.  Some do…others don’t.  The 12 VDC power is always ON to the pump.  However, that is based on NO RELAY.  Google Intellitec Water Pump Controler.  Go to the Intellitec site.  The “load” side is the GROUND….not the positive.  BUT if there is a relay on the load, then the relay is activated by ground out the coil and then the pump has a fixed or ground and the relay will send power. 

Look at the picture below to understand…..
 

Yes….they looked like oversized pin style breakers.  No sure about the screw slot (maybe my eyes).  Pull battery cables and take them out.  Clean up and check for amp rating.  Replace with auto resettable if they are maybe 50 or lower.  If higher, maybe then the lever reset style…
The Crown’s were almost custom.  Great MH.  You will enjoy.

As my corporate lawyers always told me to say....IT DEPENDS.
Do you store the MH with power?  If so, is it 30 Amps so that your Magnum can charge properly?
Does your MH have a BIRD Module so that you get charging of BOTH banks while traveling or in the CG? (I have seen what I believe was the OEM charging circuit and I believe that the particular system was a BIRD). Your manual does NOT call out a BIRD type of charging....but says that your Alternator will charge the House during travel....but nothing about the reverse such as charging the Chassis while camping and on shore.
  Your manual also states that you should have STARTING ONLY for Chassis and DEEP CYCLE for House.  Are your Chassis AGM's actually STARTING or Deep Cycle.  Many folks have not been aware of that and we have all sorts of battery combinations where starting batteries were switched and also some are running the "Combo" which give poor service life.
Did you cycle and exercise the AGM's as you should with FLA as well once or more annually down to 50% so that they will deliver full power.  AGM and FLA will get lazy or take a "SET" if you don't do that.  Here is a file that goes into batteries....
MY GUT...and this is a personal opinion....but it is based on a lot of experience and reading and such....  AGM's for starting are not my choice.  AGM's are more persnickety and DO require a different profile than FLA.  If you properly configured, and Magnum can tell you....the ME2012 for AGM, then it should be OK.  The FLA's are actually MORE robust.  If you do NOT have a BIRD (in that your Chassis is NOT charged while camping or in storage), then I would go back to FLA's.  The way your system works, unless someone has modified it or added FULL BIRD capability is that when you DRIVE, you get SOME (the manual warns NOT TO try to recharge a depleted bank of House with your alternator as ugly things happen) charging from the Alternator to the House.  BUT, if you are running the Genny for AC as many of us do, then the Magnum is taking over and will probably work be OK for the AGM's.
For Storage, I would consider a stand alone 2 amp (maybe up to 3 A) plug in charger for the Starting.  That will keep the sealed FLA's happy.  Your need a MAINTAINER, not a cheap 6/12 charger.  The Maintainer will have a charging or maintaining circuit that tops off....like your Magnum does....and then quits.  The BETTER ONES...and they add years to FLA's is the one with a Desulfonation cycle. I use that on my wife's ATS (AGM) and my Vette (FLA) as needed when we are traveling.  Both batteries are several years old and still in great shape, based on my tests and measurement...maybe borrowed time....LOL
So....NO BIRD....then FLA but keep a charger or maintainer on the Chassis....or drive the MH a few hours every few months to recharge the Chassis.  You can (take this and study it) actually start the Genny every few months....put a jumper on the positives (House and Bank) and use the Magnum to charge both.  You can use the AGM setting as the FLA's are not as picky....and BOTH will be charged.  
I DO think that the older engines and alternators were NOT designed for and are not "NICE" to AGM's.  FLA's were more robust or less picky.  I also notice how the newer vehicles work (at least on my 2014 ATS and Yukon and 2016 Vette).  ALL those electrical systems are NOW....ON DEMAND.  I have a Volt Meter on each one or can call one up on the displays.  Sometimes it is flat 12.7 or so....other times....in the mid 13's and then sometimes in the low 14's.  I talked to the Caddy/GMC and Chevy techs.  That is NOW normal.  The electronics now are closer to our Magnums in that it senses Bulk, Absorb and Float needs.  The Cummins like you have as well as mine....always put out 13.8/.9....and I THINK that the AGM's when they are full charged don't like that.
SO....YES, based on my logic...and others might agree and I know some will disagree....I would go back to FLA's on the chassis.  BUT, when I needed new House....the Trojan T-105's (FLA) would be my choice.  That is how the electrical system and the Magnum was designed and you can do MORE damage with improperly charging (your situation) an AGM....than damaging a FLA.
Hope this helps....see what others say and do some research...but you should be OK...keep the Magnum set for AGM's.  Use the Jumper to charge, occassionally, if needed the new FLA's and then go forward.  BUT....buy the 950 CCA batteries...NOT THE CHEAPER 750...you will regret it....trust me...mine came with them and I upgraded and will never go back.

EDITED FOR MORE INFO....
@Johnny Mo Please re read this....it has more details....
In a word.  You CANNOT.  The TRC switch was specifically selected for the Alladin system.  So, it measured, via current taps on the OUTGOING legs of the ATS, the voltage & amperage.  That is what went to the 50 Amp Main Panel.  That is gone now...as the current taps were inside the switch. They interfaced via a phone cable (which you do not have connected) to the Alladin head.  GAME OVER.  The really BAD NEWS....the NEW TRC replacements do NOT have the older Alladin interface...so a NEW TRC will not work with the Alladin.  I THOUGHT this was the case, based on what I know....and @Frank McElroy , as usual was a wealth of information.  on't know exactly how they were connected...but it appears that you have lost that...  He was curious as to WHY you had to replace it as they are pretty bullet proof.  One of our departed members, Bill Groves, would replace the MOV (the part that opens up when it takes a hit).  They are Metal Oxide Varistors and are commonly available.  You check them and if they have an OPEN circuit, you pull off the board and replace them with new.  SIMPLE...  If you saved the switch, you might be able to get it repaired....many here do this..
OK....back to your issue....or the explanation....if you followed the above....What you have is an UPSTREAM or Shore unit.  You listed the info for the portable (plug in model).  Even if you had purchased the PWD50-EPO - H (Hardwired), it is SUPPOSED to monitor the incoming power.  The user's guide uses the work "PARK" more times than a politician says.  I WILL....  in a campaign speech.  Pardon that NON Political pun. 
The Hughes is a knockoff or a competitor of the Progressive Industries.  NONE of the Hard Wired or Plug IN Surge Suppressors are supposed to be DOWNSTREAM of the ATS.  They were designed for UPSTREAM to protect the ATS as well.  So, that is what it is.
Now, by not replacing the TRC with a comparable model, you may have an issue or not........but that MIGHT be simple to at least test once and a while.  First, you need to know that your Genny is pretty robust and will deliver good power.  BUT.... You have the larger 10KW (maybe 12...doesn't matter). unit.  That unit MUST be exercised about once or twice a year....otherwise you get issues....which I THINK you can or were able, per reading and talking with other folks, on the Alladin to monitor or see. The Brushes get crappy.  When you load it up with 3 AC's and such and get a good load on it, the brushes will self clean....saving you a costly repair.  So, make a point of loading it heavy and running for an hour or so....many folks have experienced this.
NOW, the problem is that you do HAVE 240 VAC (lines 1 and 2) coming in from your Genny.  The Onan Power is super clean....assuming that you do the PM and run it to clean the brushes.  Therefore, you just can't purchase a cheap plug in voltmeter from Amazon and plug it in.  Look on page 185 of your manual. The SUBPANEL figure is the one you want to see...but you may have the other.  I pulled your prints for what I wanted, but it was NOT there....so this will be YOUR TEST...and how you can monitor...
I THINK that the Line 2 Power (from the Genny or Shore....doesn't matter) which is #3 CB controls the blank #1 and #2 & #4.  Simply TURN IT OFF.  Then go to the outlets that are marked on the panel.  IF no power....turn it back on.  Then turn off #6.  That should kill #5, #7 & #8.  OK...assuming that works.  Then here is a quick and inexpensive way to monitor.
Order a cheap digital plug in 120 VAC meter from Amazon.  There are scads of them....pick one with the best reviews or rating.  NOW...you will need, when on Genny to plug it in to one of the circuits from L2 (Breaker #3) and Line 1 (Breaker #5). That is the easy way to test periodically. 
HOWEVER, that does NOT take the place of the Alladin....as it monitored OK....the OTHER WAY....and that is probably the easiest.....
https://www.amazon.com/80-260V-CRS-022B-Display-Voltmeter-Transformer/dp/B0919LV66F/ref=sr_1_5?keywords=killawatt+220v&qid=1682525857&sr=8-5
In your main panel, if you pull the cover....there is are TWO #6 (Red and Black). You might have to remove them as I can't tell if the above kit has "FIXED" current taps or if you can squeeze them open like a Clamp on Ammeter.  You MIGHT find similar kits....but if you want WIRELESS....then that is going to be several hundred dollars.
SO...you put a current tap on each leg or each piece of #6 and mount the meters.  You can easily let the wires (with a little tape to prevent abrading) under the cover and mount them somewhere.
Those are NO OTHER OPTIONS....as TRC and Alladin do NOT have a retro KIT.  I THINK that if you had purchased the NEW TRC, that there is a remote "head" or display that you can mount somewhere....that is from the conversation with Frank and I have not researched that.....
That's it...  You lost your Aladdin when you went to the Southwire ATS and the Power Dog was never set up nor should it have been, to monitor the Genny.
Let us know what you do....if anything....as we all learn.
 
 

Ditto to what Vito suggested.  Alcohol & Q-tips or electronic (NOT ELECTRICAL) cleaner works.  You have to drop the covers or the filter covers.  Clean the contacts in the dual inline female-female connectors also.  I have replaced my connectors.  Plug and unplug them a few times to burnish.
After you get ot working, do NOT use the bottom switch to turn off. Use the Zone and then the Mode to OFF.  The switches are typically the first failure point and the thermostat is no longer made so you have to scrounge.
Assume you have heat pumps.  Run them on HP for a while, then on AC.  Maybe 10 minutes.  Cycle them back and forth about 3 times to get the reversing valve “moving” and working.
BTW.  If you camp in high humidity area, use AUTO or HIGH fan, otherwise, you will have issues and units will not work well.  That is in some manuals.  You need to wash and dry the filters frequently.  Amazon sells the lower cover with a new filter for maybe $15…so if your covers are “less than pristine”, thats a great deal as the filters are almost $10.
Sometime pull the roof covers and use HVAC coil cleaner or a week “SimpleGreen” solution and get the crap off the coils.  Compressed ait or vacuum works….never can tell if critters or insects have blocked them

Update @ziaptrn
here is a picture of what, most likely, your dipstick should look like.  I and another member are a bit confused. The dipstick cap has a bolt through it and the dipstick, I think, is bolted on.  If you unscrew the cap, in the picture, yours should look like this. If all you have is the cap, then time to drain and go dumpster diving.  You do NOT want or should drive it as the nut, and maybe a washer is missing…. 
NOW, if that is wrong, then take some pictures of the plug, removed…  the aftermarket looks like  DORMAN 917-5506.  But, I don’t know if the length is correct…
That’s all the help I can give without some additional photos….
 

OK...for me as well as others....
Your Front and Rear HVAC (AC) circuit breakers are plain ones....NOT a GFCI style...
Next, I reread your previous post as well as the PM's we exchanged.  From WHAT I gather, you had a Tech install a capacitor on the front unit as it was acting up.  I do NOT know if he installed an OEM or simple one or whether he upgraded you to the soft start which has been advertised to "keep the current low" as the compressor motor is older and requires a higher starting current.  Do you have an UPGRADED SOFT START or just a Replacement Capacitor.....this is on the FRONT.
I also understand that you have issues with the rear AC.  As I advised in our PM, it may be more cost effective to replace BOTH the AC (HVAC HP...I THINK) units and also upgrade (you MUST) to the newer, smarter Dometic Thermostat....than to keep working on the older ones.  You being a full timer have at least 10 times the hours on your units than most of us do....and many are experiencing issues with units the age of your system.
NEXT UP.  Your EMS will NOT, when on 50 AMP display any current.  The System ASSUMES, since it reads 240 VAC across Line 1 and Line 2, that you have 50 Amps. However, you have a 7.5KW or an 8 KW 120 VAC Onan generator.  It had TWO Lines....Line 1 and Line 2.  These are 120 VAC and NOT OUT OF PHASE.  Therefore, the EMS does not sense or read 240 VAC as the lines are in phase...or the same.
What you are reading on your EMS is the total current being drawn or used by BOTH these lines.  The "Spike" (50 Amp?) you see is tripping the Individual (or should be) main 120 VAC 20 Amp circuit breaker.  That indicates that the motor is overloaded.....during startup....and might be "worn" enough to draw way too much current. 
Now, if you recall when you had the issue of the failure of your EMS circa 2015 or so....what the EMS is reading is the TOTAL current from both lines.  Ordinarily, when one of your units comes on or the compressor starts up, you MIGHT see 17 or 18 amps.  Then it will drop back to the 13 - 15 Amps and run there....there is ALWAYS a start spike in the compressor.....but your HVAC units seem to be drawing TOO much current.  The Soft Start Capacitor kit has some "Electronics" to dampen that and will let a worn or older unit not require the high spike.  I hope that makes sense as that is how I understand it.  These kits are upwards (or were) of $400...and require some wiring modifications.  Adding two of them could be maybe $1,000 so that is why I suggested, in my PM, that you do some research on two new units and do a complete replacement rather than pouring more money into an old system....that will eventually, probably sooner than you want, fail.
As to the GFCI. I THINK that the high starting current is triggering a "False" signal to the GFCI.  It is very hard to diagnose or determine if that is the issue.  If you do NOT run the AC's and you can run your microwave or such....remembering that you DO have limited power from the Generator.  Also please do NOT overload your generator....like before.  If you exceed 50 amps (which is the combined load of line 1 and line 2), you risk damaging your wiring as your cables, like all Monaco, are only rated, when on Generator for 50 Amps.....not 60.
Hope this helps....