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The 2006 Monaco Dynasty that we will be picking up from the consignment dealership in Salt Lake City Utah on the 28th of this month has a variety of tire DOT codes plus there are two different sizes.

Unfortunately, the tires are made by Goodyear aka Badyear. The front steer tires are size 295/80R/22.5. The rear dual drive tires and the tag axe are 11R/22.5. For the life of me I have no idea why they would have put a different size tire on the drive and tag axles.

First question is, what are the basic differences between the 295/80R/22.5 and the 11R/22.5 other than from my research, I have found they are different load ratings, H versus G.

I need to set cold psi's for all of the tires before leaving the storage facility to drive back to Florida. There won't be a lot of added weight other than a full tank of diesel and a full tank of fresh water. The coach will be basically empty. Once we are home and have stocked the coach for our normal living and travel patterns, I will weigh the coach on each corner to get true weights and then come up with a more accurate cold psi based on true weights.

Second question, based on inflation charts and tire brand I have calculated the following cold psi's that I should start out with for our trip back to Florida. They are: Front Steer - 105 psi, Rear Drive - 90 psi and Tag Axle - 85 psi. Do these appear reasonable considering the MGW specs for the axles are Front - 15,160 lbs, Drive - 20,000 lbs, and Tag - 10,000 lbs?

I am a Coach-Net Emergency Roadside Assistance member and have been for 12 years now. The consignment dealership is offering a Coach-Net Tire & Wheel Hazard Protection policy for 5 years at the discounted cost of $1224. Is this a good deal or should I just save the money? I do have to ask at what level this coverage is for, Basic, Preferred or Ultimate.

Thanks in advance for your advice and opinions.

Warranty Info Sheets_Page_1.jpg

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How old are the existing tires and how soon do you plan on purchasing new tires?

 

   Just curious as to your route back to Florida from Utah, is the coach in SLC?

 

 Not knowing what tires you are interested in but you can read about tires sizing in here .

https://www.michelinb2b.com/wps/b2bcontent/PDF/RV_Tires_Brochure.pdf

Edited by Jdw12345
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Front tires are 2017, drive tires are 2015 and tag tires are 2018.

My route will be I-15 south as quickly as possible. Then connect up to the I-10 freeway around Quartzsite which will take us all the way to Florida.

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$1300 is a lot for the coverage they are offering in my opinion. You have a lot of the expensive parts of a blowout covered between your insurance (skirting, fenders, drivetrain) and CoachNet (Stuck on the road). $1200 is about the cost of 2 tires.

If it were me, I would use that $1200 and buy new tires and cover them with a tire warranty from that shop that includes road hazard coverage if you can find that.

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I was in the same position when I bought my coach, Goodyear tires almost aged out.  I drove it home from FL to TN, the front tires were rivered and I had a bad vibration in the front.

I first thing I did was have the fronts changed to Bridgestone but also had a front end alignment from the shop that Buddy Gregg recommended.  No vibration or tire wear and I ran those tires for ~60K miles and they looked good but were aged out (big time).

The rear tires were Goodyear and I ran those for another couple years.  When I had them pulled off I inspected the inside and they looked good, no signs of potential failure etc.  Replaced them with Bridgestone also.  Ran that set for another 7 years of use and then parked the rig while I was building a house.  I just recently installed Yokohama all the way around, I wanted Toyo but couldn't find any.  I've put 10K miles on the Yokohama's since purchase and I think the rid is comparable to the Bridgestone. 

The cost of the Tire and Wheel Coverage seems high but I'd read the fine print, there may be an exclusion for tires that old anyway.  I doubt any insurance company would provide coverage on aged out tires, which your drive axles are boarder line at. 

What brand tires are on the rear axle?  How do they look?  Does/did the coach have a TPMS, have the tires always been monitored? 

 

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 Yes age and condition of tires should be looked at closely before the trip across country. A ten year old tire with lots of tread  and smooth sidewalks might look great but it’s going to fail on you. You might just order new tires now and get them installed there. I have a 2000 Dynasty 40’ (No tag). I carry about 1/2 tank of water when traveling. You can always find potable water. I put on six new Toyo’s  (H) rated. Same size all the way around 295/75R 22.5/16 M170. Lot of motorhomes running them now.Great reviews  

Replaced the Goodyear’s (G rated).  Also had counteracting beads ( 10 oz. bags) installed in each tire when they mounted them. I running 100psi all tires. Smooth riding tires. By the way I sold my old ones to a trucker to run on his trailer for $300. (Better than nothing ). I’m in the south an used Southern Tire Mart.   Tires, mounting ,balance beads, labor and tax $2689.19.  You’re going to replace them anyway. Why wait and have a blowout that will cause damage to the rig or kill you. JMHO 

Stay safe  and enjoy your “new “  coach  

Jim 2000 Dynasty  Jeep Liberty Toad 

Edited by Fasthobie16
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Richard

FIVE YEAR OLD Goodyear's-(JUNK YEARS) are already beyond their LIFE LIMIT replacement time. The history of Zipper Blowouts with the Goodyear tire is well proven. I personally would not dare risk my well being driving this coach from Utah to Florida on the Goodyear tires.

What Make are the Drive and Tag tires? Seven year old Drive tires are AGED OUT and should be replaced. You can get another year or so out of the tags.

The 11R/22.5, load range G tire is OK for lighter coaches, not the Dynasty with a tag. The correct tire size for that coach is 295/80R/22.5 load Range H. The 11R/22.5 tire is a long haul tire and is not really recommended for Motor Homes. Check the Tire pressure chart next to the Drivers seat for the correct size tire and load range as well as the recommended Tire Pressures for the trip to Florida.

I would pass on the Coach Net Tire Coverage for that kind of premium and take the$1300.00 and purchase two new steer tires before you make the trip. It will be Money well spent.

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I ran 315s on the front of my 04 Dynasty and 11R22.5 in the rear once the 295s aged out. The big Monaco’s need at least a 295 on the front but not on the rear. A 11R needs +8 psi  to carry the same load as a 295 and the psi you quoted  is plenty for the weight/rating for each axle. Both sizes are the same diameter and many trucks run 11Rs in all positions.

Without having put all the miles on the tires you are rolling the dice to save what??? They need replacing.

Im also running 315s and 11R on my 08 Navigstor. Put 35K miles that way on the Dynasty and only recently put 11R on the back of the Nav.

Edited by Ivylog
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Congratulations on the new coach!  Wow, a 2006 Dynasty.  It just doesn't get any better than that.  

They use the 11R 22.5 tire on the rear because they are cheaper than the 295/80.  But just as Dick has indicated, the load range is less so you need to run higher tire pressure on the 11R tires.    

I would increase your calculated psi by about 5psi across the board as a safety margin.  My thoughts: A little higher pressure reduces ride comfort but is still safe.  A little low may not be safe.  

I would pass on the Coach-Net tire warranty and get a less expensive Good Sam (or other) policy.  

I would put together a minimal tool kit to take with you.  Include Allen wrenches to set mirrors.  Zip ties, bailing wire, and duct tape are always handy.  

Best of luck!

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6 hours ago, jacwjames said:

The cost of the Tire and Wheel Coverage seems high, but I'd read the fine print, there may be an exclusion for tires that old anyway.  I doubt any insurance company would provide coverage on aged out tires, which your drive axles are boarder line at. 

What brand tires are on the rear axle?  How do they look?  Does/did the coach have a TPMS, have the tires always been monitored? 

 

Jim, all 8 tires are Goodyears. The inspector did not record the model of the tire just the brand, size and DOT Code. Plus I could not tell from the photos that he took and placed in his report.

I don't think the Tire - Wheel Hazard Protection policy is all that expensive when you consider that this is for the Ultimate level of coverage which has unlimited number of tire repairs or replacements per year, up to two auto tire repair or replacements per year and up to $800 in wheel replacement costs per year. Heck, I could lose all 8 tires on the trip back and end up with 8 brand new tires on the coach all paid for and all I have to do is sign my name.

6 hours ago, David Pratt said:

Richard

What Make are the Drive and Tag tires? Seven year old Drive tires are AGED OUT and should be replaced. You can get another year or so out of the tags.

The 11R/22.5, load range G tire is OK for lighter coaches, not the Dynasty with a tag. The correct tire size for that coach is 295/80R/22.5 load Range H. The 11R/22.5 tire is a long haul tire and is not really recommended for Motor Homes. Check the Tire pressure chart next to the Drivers seat for the correct size tire and load range as well as the recommended Tire Pressures for the trip to Florida.

I would pass on the Coach Net Tire Coverage for that kind of premium and take the$1300.00 and purchase two new steer tires before you make the trip. It will be Money well spent.

David, All of the tires are Goodyears. I agree the coach should never have the 11R/22.5 tires on the rear. Obviously, they were trying to save some money. I will definitely have a higher cold psi for the drive and tag axles.

4 hours ago, vito.a said:

Congratulations on the new coach!  Wow, a 2006 Dynasty.  It just doesn't get any better than that.  

They use the 11R 22.5 tire on the rear because they are cheaper than the 295/80.  But just as Dick has indicated, the load range is less so you need to run higher tire pressure on the 11R tires.    

I would increase your calculated psi by about 5psi across the board as a safety margin.  My thoughts: A little higher pressure reduces ride comfort but is still safe.  A little low may not be safe.  

I would pass on the Coach-Net tire warranty and get a less expensive Good Sam (or other) policy.  

I would put together a minimal tool kit to take with you.  Include Allen wrenches to set mirrors.  Zip ties, bailing wire, and duct tape are always handy.  

Best of luck!

Thanks for your thoughts on what cold psi's i should set the tires at before leaving Salt Lake City. So, with that said the front tires will be set at 110 psi, the drive tires will be set at 95 psi and the tag axle will be set at 90 psi.

I am definitely leaning toward signing up for the Tire - Wheel Hazard Protection as it is the Ultimate Level of protection which includes unlimited number of RV tire repairs or replacements. As stated previously I could lose all 8 tires on the trip home and end up with 8 brand new tires.

I doubt that Good Sam has anything close to the same level of protection as what Coach-Net offers. Plus, Coach-Net has been very good to me. There have been WAY too many horror stories about any of the Good Sam coverages, so I always steer clear of them.

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This is timely! Have a set of Michelins' that are aged out. 295/80R 22.5. Have had no issues with them. Have run them at the pressures per Michelin and the weights per station. (got it weighed at Seffner a couple of years ago!). I did get sticker shock when I looked at the replacement cost for Michelins - thought the each price was for all 8 (lol). Checked Coach-Net and FMCA; all 700+ per. Seems to me I have heard, in the past few years, owners have had good luck with Toyo's. I can get their M144 290/80r for about 490 including install in Central FL. Big difference. I know there is a session next week so am going to hold off to see what I learn.

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I wanted Toyos for the old coach (19.5") but couldn't find any . . . . settled for Sumitomos.  This coach had Sumitomos installed that are past their age limit but no signs of cracking, etc.  I do run Tire Minder TPMS but (I believe) someone put balancing beads (probably auto not RV) in the tires and they jam the valve cores.  They read fine but putting air in the tires is a major PITA, but that's another story.  Bottom line, I'm a firm believer in Sumitomos . . . and in this day of availability?

Good luck with your trip home and finding fresh meat. 

- bob 

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Did you ever say how old the tires are?  
Sounds like your mind is made up on the tire insurance, but personally, if I thought there was any significant chance of losing a tire, I’d spend that money on new tires…

If the tires aren’t too old, and are otherwise in good shape, I’d be inclined to put two new tires on the front and run the rest until they reach whatever age you consider old enough to warrant replacement. 

Cheers

Walter

Edited by wamcneil
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2 hours ago, wamcneil said:

Did you ever say how old the tires are?  
Sounds like your mind is made up on the tire insurance, but personally, if I thought there was any significant change of losing a tire, I’d spend that money on new tires…

If the tires aren’t too old, and are otherwise in good shape, I’d be inclined to put two new tires on the front and run the rest until they reach whatever age you consider old enough to warrant replacement. 

Cheers

Walter

Good advise 

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Walter, the third entry is where I posted the age of the tires.

My reasoning and justification for the 5-year Ultimate Level Tire & Wheel Hazard Protection is that it covers unlimited number of RV tire repairs or replacements per year and wheels up up to $800 per year. Plus, it covers up to two tire repairs or replacements for the car. The best part is that it is a "sign & drive" coverage, so I don't have to pay up front and then try to get reimbursed later.

I think the $1224 for the 5 years would be prudent for this trip from Salt Lake City to Florida. If I lose all 8 tires during the trip which is highly doubtful, then I end up with 8 brand new tires. Then once back I will re-evaluate the tire situation. it's a lot easier to do that back in familiar territory. I really prefer using Barry @ Josam's for my tire purchases.

I also purchased a 12 Tire Position Pressure Pro System to take with me and install before leaving Salt Lake City. I am also taking my SilverLeaf System to hook up to the engine.

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My worry isn't losing a tire on the road, heck I carry a complete spare and tools to replace it myself if I really had to, but the damage a blown tire can cause. I know that's what insurance is for but the hassle associated it is nothing I would want to go through again. 

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Buy new tires, instead of an insurance policy. Sell the take offs to a local trucker. They like them for trailers. 125$ EACH is realistic. All you have is TIME. Use it. The tire retailers know where/who the truckers are, that are always looking for those take offs. 

I would run 100 steer, 90 drive, and 80 for the tag for your trip from SLC to Fl. OR weigh the coach and go from there.  Over inflation is simply that. 

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Besides the point, but I always find it curious talking about the cold pressure. Your cold pressure in SLC is gonna be so much higher when you get south. I know mine is and so I change it with seasons.

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28 minutes ago, Ivan K said:

Besides the point, but I always find it curious talking about the cold pressure. Your cold pressure in SLC is gonna be so much higher when you get south. I know mine is and so I change it with seasons.

Actually lower.  I made that mistake going from GA to CO in 2005.  But the point is, BIG elevation changes make a difference also.  I wouldn't worry going over mountain passes, etc but if making a base camp change I might look at resetting tire pressures. 

- bob

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7 minutes ago, Ivan K said:

Besides the point, but I always find it curious talking about the cold pressure. Your cold pressure in SLC is gonna be so much higher when you get south. I know mine is and so I change it with seasons.

You have to start some where? 

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3 hours ago, Ivan K said:

Besides the point, but I always find it curious talking about the cold pressure. Your cold pressure in SLC is gonna be so much higher when you get south. I know mine is and so I change it with seasons.

I not only change it with seasons but will also change it going from a warm southern area to a very cold northern area. Such as the trip we took leaving Flagler Beach Florida in mid-April and arriving in Anchorage Alaska in mid-May. Plus going the other way such as the upcoming trip to pick up our Dynasty in SLC and then arriving in Florida. That's why I never move my coach without having a trusted TPMS reporting the tire pressures.

Moxy1962, thanks for posting the tire pressures you are running at. I plan to use 110 in the front steers, 95 on the drive axle tires and 85 on the tag axle tires. They will increase within a day or two as I get into Arizona and New Mexico and then around Louisiana I will check them again as we are closing in on Florida.

 

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While Moxy’s psi happened to be close, they have little similarity to your 06 Dynasty. His 01, first year for a tag on a Dynasty with only 275/80/22.5 tires plus it weighs a fair amount less than a 06 Dynasty with 4 slides.

Do a EBay search for Hankook (or any other brand) 295/80/22.5 tires and then Hankook 11R22.5. Yes, the 11R is less expensive than a 295 but good luck finding a 295 on the road when you need one.

The only reason to run 295s on the rear is because they are the same size as the front but not necessarily for the amount of weight on the rear axles, unlike the front. I wonder how many miles the previous owner successfully put on the 11Rs on the back of the rig? I’ve put over 50K miles.

As posted, you should be able to get $100+ for the takeoffs, especially the 11Rs, probably the most common truck tire. There’s a lot of nothing between SLC and Flagler Beach…good luck getting a tire installed, assuming it didn’t destroy anything important, in the middle of nowhere and at a reasonable price.  Good Luck as it looks like you’d already made up your mind before posting. The least I’d do is 2 new on the front as a Big Bang on the back is not near as exciting as one up front. Also the 11R22.5 Goodyears on the rear are like not the same as the Badyears on MHs.

 

Edited by Ivylog
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7 minutes ago, Ivylog said:

While Moxy’s psi happened to be close, they have little similarity to your 06 Dynasty. His 01, first year for a tag on a Dynasty with only 275/80/22.5 tires plus it weighs a fair amount less than a 06 Dynasty with 4 slides.

Do a EBay search for Hankook (or any other brand) 295/80/22.5 tires and then Hankook 11R22.5. Yes, the 11R is less expensive than a 295 but good luck finding a 295 on the road when you need one.

The only reason to run 295s on the rear is because they are the same size as the front but not necessarily for the amount of weight on the rear axles, unlike the front. I wonder how many miles the previous owner successfully put on the 11Rs on the back of the rig?

As posted, you should be able to get $100+ for the takeoffs, especially the 11Rs, probably the most common truck tire. There’s a lot of nothing between SLC and Flagler Beach…good luck getting a tire installed, assuming it didn’t destroy anything important, in the middle of nowhere and at a reasonable price.  Good Luck as it looks like you’d already made up your mind before posting. The least I’d do is 2 new on the front as a Big Bang on the back is not near as exciting as one up front.

 

Agree, 295s and 275 at the same pressure support more weight than the 11r 14 ply but can be found with 16 ply which have lower weight capacity at any given psi than 295 and similar to 275  and if we agree that lower psi translates into softer ride, 295 80 22.5s are the way to go imho, or 275 80 22.5 which has 500lbs less capacity at same psi  still has better ride than an  11r 14 ply or 16 ply iirc, 

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