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Having problems trying to find the correct dryer for my Dynasty. There is no part number on the old dryer just “made in China” I  ordered one from Amazon and it has the wrong size fittings. I would think they used the same dryer for quite a few years so does someone no the correct part number?

 

945C6EEB-5D2D-4E3C-9CA6-66B8E32B662A.jpeg

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Posted (edited)

You will have to measure the inlet / outlet and get the thread (typically metric or SAE thead).

Shop with those three specs in mind.

Looks like possibly one of the inlet / outlets is same as yours...measure and compare and count thread pitch / inch to see if same...then you will know the specs for the other.

Edited by DavidL
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Posted (edited)

Mine is Receiver Drier   RD-6166C


Inlet Thread Size 5/8-18
Outlet Thread Size 5/8-18
Diameter (mm) 64
Inlet/ Outlet (mm) 9
Length (mm) 205
Switch Port Size Female- 3/8-24
Switch Port Size Male- 7/16-20
Sight Glass (Y/ N) Yes see less

Edited by Hypoxia
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Our dryer is a 4 Seasons 33276.  It looks identical to yours except the sight glass is located lightly different and it has a port in the back for the pressure switch (but you can just plug it).  

It was under $30 at the local auto parts store.  

AC Dryer 4 Seasons.jpg

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8 minutes ago, vito.a said:

Our dryer is a 4 Seasons 33276.  It looks identical to yours except the sight glass is located lightly different and it has a port in the back for the pressure switch (but you can just plug it).  

Yes, if you plug my RD-6166C number into the 4 seasons X reference you get 33276!  Four Seasons

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I have been trying to find the expansion valve that sits above and to the right of the dryer in the front on my 2006 Dynasty.

Anyone have any ideas as to where I might find one?

If that doesn't solve my AC cooling problem, I may have to replace the compressor.

I had a shop do an evac and recharge with dye, but the system would not pressurize when raising the rpm. They want to try an expansion valve and dryer first.

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7 hours ago, Dr4Film said:

I have been trying to find the expansion valve that sits above and to the right of the dryer in the front on my 2006 Dynasty.

Anyone have any ideas as to where I might find one?

If that doesn't solve my AC cooling problem, I may have to replace the compressor.

I had a shop do an evac and recharge with dye, but the system would not pressurize when raising the rpm. They want to try an expansion valve and dryer first.

This is the one I just ordered. https://www.acparts.com/product/block-type-expansion-valves-39/ for my 06 navigator.

From the searching for these ac parts I have done I think this is another case of Monaco putting on what ever they had on the shelf. I have seen some guys post their part numbers and they were not the same as mine even though their coach was about the same year as mine. Finally took mine off and sent pictures to the site above and they were able to match it. I might have I just bought the last one they had in stock. Not sure if they can get more but if yours is the same at least you'll have the part number to look for.

FYI I had a leak in my valve and while I have it apart decided to replace the compressor and dryer since they are the original ones. Mine is a Sanden 4420 and they had it for $250. 

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Got my new expansion valve delivered and not sure if it will work or not. The fitting sizes are the same and that's what I had a hard time finding. But the new valve doesn't have the wire sticking out of the top like the old one did (see picture). Do I need this? Also the distance from the block to the round disc on top is less than on the original valve. I have no idea if this matters or not. Anyone have any idea if these 2 differences will cause any issues or make it not work correctly?

Expansion valve.jpg

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Last year I thought I might have had a bad expansion valve and did some research.  Fortunately, that wasn’t my problem. The company Monaco used, SCS, was sold to Victory Climate Systems. They didn’t have very good records, but I’ve attached a screenshot of the PDF they sent.  
From what I understand, the biggest concern is getting a valve with the correct fitting sizes.  I’m sure someone on here has a lot of AC expertise and can chime in.

2B4F5973-ED62-431B-83C2-6808AD7C32A3.png

E11D57FA-BD7A-4EE8-9105-189234B5EF00.png

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  • 2 weeks later...
On 5/13/2022 at 10:13 AM, Ivan K said:

Seems you have the same kind as I do. Works fine 

 

On 5/14/2022 at 9:37 AM, dandick66 said:

Last year I thought I might have had a bad expansion valve and did some research.  Fortunately, that wasn’t my problem. The company Monaco used, SCS, was sold to Victory Climate Systems. They didn’t have very good records, but I’ve attached a screenshot of the PDF they sent.  
From what I understand, the biggest concern is getting a valve with the correct fitting sizes.  I’m sure someone on here has a lot of AC expertise and can chime in.

2B4F5973-ED62-431B-83C2-6808AD7C32A3.png

E11D57FA-BD7A-4EE8-9105-189234B5EF00.png

Thanks for the info guys! 

 

I was finally able to get back to working on this. I ended up changing the compressor, drier, expansion valve and repairing the hoses. Had a couple wear spots and they were leaking. I just cut about 4 foot off of both hoses and crimped on new hose and Schrade valves since they were in the bad section of hose. Pulled a vacuum ( it set for a couple days and held just fine) and recharged. 

First thing I noticed was the high side was running higher than it should. Found the condenser fan was not running. Took it apart cleaned up the brushes and was able to get it going again. Seams to be cooling pretty good now (about 48 degrees at the vents and 85 outside), my psi readings (both high and low)  are sitting at about the same psi as the oat after sitting.  However with motor running low side will start out at 20 and high about 160. My manual calls for 4 pounds of 134a which I had in it. Once I bump it up to 1200 rpm high side will go up to about 175 but low side will drop slowly down until it gets to about 4 psi. 

I'm not sure if this is an issue? Is it OK to use with these pressures if it's cooling? I don't want to damage anything. I did add about another 5 Oz of 134 with no change. 

Interested to hear anyone thoughts on this and what if anything I should do next. 

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Kevin, my initial thought is that you should add some more freon. If you measure the temp of air entering the condenser at 85F, the high pressure would be fine around 185psi. I have no doubt that the long return run has an effect on low pressure reading at compressor side and I know that mine is also lower than I would have expected with a regular car but pretty certain not 4psi. I just don't remember anymore after those years. My manual does not even lists low side readings. 

Screenshot_20220529-113624_Office.jpg

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Thanks Ivan! 

I'm going to take it out for a good drive today and check it when I get back. It's about 85 degrees out here now so that should give it a good test. Haven't don't that since I got it all back together. 

So from your chart I take the air temp going into the condenser and add 40 to it and the high side should be somewhat close to that but not over. If that correct? 

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56 minutes ago, Yoaks5 said:

Thanks Ivan! 

I'm going to take it out for a good drive today and check it when I get back. It's about 85 degrees out here now so that should give it a good test. Haven't don't that since I got it all back together. 

So from your chart I take the air temp going into the condenser and add 40 to it and the high side should be somewhat close to that but not over. If that correct? 

Yeah, temp +40 and look at the corresponding PSig in the table. 

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I added another can of 134a with no change. Took it for a 20 min drive air temp at the register was 45. Outside air temp was 85 degrees. tested right after I got back 

Low side 9psi - High side 170psi @ 700 rpms

went to high idle 1300rpms and pressure went to low side 2psi - high side 180.

added 12 oz 134a (total in is now 5.3lbs) low side goes up as I add but drops back down once I stop adding. Adding the additional Freon made no difference in the pressure reading.  

System does cool pretty well temps at the supply vent are 45-50 degrees. 

Any issue just running it this way? My manual says it needs 4 pounds and I have about 5.3 but since its cooling ok I'm tempted to leave it alone unless this can damage something.

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I have yet to see pressure mismatch like that at your given temperature. If you see 4 psi at 1200 rpm and 2 psi at 1300 rpm, what are you going to see at your cruising rpm, 1600 or more? Will the compressor have enough oil coming in to replace what gets pushed out? It seems to me like a blockage somewhere in the system, maybe because too much oil (viscosity?) that collected someplace, causing the low return side pressure? The high side pressure is not high for what now should be an overfilled system but that's because there isnt enough freon on the low side to compress. Just my speculation, maybe someone has a real life explanation. 

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19 hours ago, Yoaks5 said:

I added another can of 134a with no change. Took it for a 20 min drive air temp at the register was 45. Outside air temp was 85 degrees. tested right after I got back 

Low side 9psi - High side 170psi @ 700 rpms

went to high idle 1300rpms and pressure went to low side 2psi - high side 180.

added 12 oz 134a (total in is now 5.3lbs) low side goes up as I add but drops back down once I stop adding. Adding the additional Freon made no difference in the pressure reading.  

System does cool pretty well temps at the supply vent are 45-50 degrees. 

Any issue just running it this way? My manual says it needs 4 pounds and I have about 5.3 but since its cooling ok I'm tempted to leave it alone unless this can damage something.

Kevin,

I think these systems will tolerate a little overloading but I don’t think I’d add any more since it doesn’t seem to be changing anything.

I replaced my compressor and had a shop do a pull and recharge. They used 300 PSI nitrogen to leak test, and found several by the condenser (mounted behind the front axle). Fixed but no pressure, so they changed the expansion valve. They declared it “fixed” but gave me high pressure readings of 190 and low of 12. I was always taught to expect a larger low pressure value, so I really haven’t used the dash A/C since then; don’t trust it. Not a huge issue this season since we are up near Seattle and heading back down the coast all summer. It could be that your low low-pressure reading is simply a function of the system design and large footprint. 

Now, all that said, I have a cautionary note for you. If you’re on a trip and start to get decreased cooling to the point where the A/C has no effect, turn it off and maybe unplug the wiring at the compressor. If these Sanden units run low on refrigerant, the compressor will freeze up. On the Detroit coaches, a locked compressor will shred the single serpentine belt, and you’ll be without an alternator. And if you don’t have knowledge or a picture of how the serpentine belt is routed, you’ll be scratching your head to put on a new one correctly. Voice of experience…

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1 minute ago, georgecederholm said:

On the Detroit coaches, a locked compressor will shred the single serpentine belt, and you’ll be without an alternator. And if you don’t have knowledge or a picture of how the serpentine belt is routed, you’ll be scratching your head to put on a new one correctly. Voice of experience…

That's why it is important to take a photo to have on your smart phone BEFORE the serpentine belt is totally destroyed. Then it is readily available in case you have to replace the serpentine belt while on road. I also carry a previously used serpentine and an AC belt to have as backups.

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18 hours ago, Ivan K said:

I have yet to see pressure mismatch like that at your given temperature. If you see 4 psi at 1200 rpm and 2 psi at 1300 rpm, what are you going to see at your cruising rpm, 1600 or more? Will the compressor have enough oil coming in to replace what gets pushed out? It seems to me like a blockage somewhere in the system, maybe because too much oil (viscosity?) that collected someplace, causing the low return side pressure? The high side pressure is not high for what now should be an overfilled system but that's because there isnt enough freon on the low side to compress. Just my speculation, maybe someone has a real life explanation. 

Thanks Ivan! I appreciate the thoughts and help. 

17 hours ago, Ray Davis said:

 

Here is a site you may find interesting.

https://automobileremedy.com/blog/ac-low-side-pressure-too-high/

Thanks Ray...I'll check it out!

2 hours ago, georgecederholm said:

Kevin,

I think these systems will tolerate a little overloading but I don’t think I’d add any more since it doesn’t seem to be changing anything.

I replaced my compressor and had a shop do a pull and recharge. They used 300 PSI nitrogen to leak test, and found several by the condenser (mounted behind the front axle). Fixed but no pressure, so they changed the expansion valve. They declared it “fixed” but gave me high pressure readings of 190 and low of 12. I was always taught to expect a larger low pressure value, so I really haven’t used the dash A/C since then; don’t trust it. Not a huge issue this season since we are up near Seattle and heading back down the coast all summer. It could be that your low low-pressure reading is simply a function of the system design and large footprint. 

Now, all that said, I have a cautionary note for you. If you’re on a trip and start to get decreased cooling to the point where the A/C has no effect, turn it off and maybe unplug the wiring at the compressor. If these Sanden units run low on refrigerant, the compressor will freeze up. On the Detroit coaches, a locked compressor will shred the single serpentine belt, and you’ll be without an alternator. And if you don’t have knowledge or a picture of how the serpentine belt is routed, you’ll be scratching your head to put on a new one correctly. Voice of experience…

Thanks George! That is good info about the belt. I hadn't even though about that possibility. I do have a spare belt and do know how it goes on. However I'm going to buy a temp gauge to put in a vent and watch that as I drive. 

2 hours ago, Dr4Film said:

That's why it is important to take a photo to have on your smart phone BEFORE the serpentine belt is totally destroyed. Then it is readily available in case you have to replace the serpentine belt while on road. I also carry a previously used serpentine and an AC belt to have as backups.

Thanks Richard...I do have the old one as a spare and know how it goes on.

Some additional info that may help.

I'm not sure what it means but my compressor did not shut off during the testing. It never cycles, probably ran for 30 minutes solid the entire time. It did shut off when I turned the ac off. 

Sanden (the compressor manufacturer) had the correct amount of oil in the compressor when I bought it. Their directions say no additional oil should need to be added for systems of 4 lbs of Freon or less. I didn't add any additional oil since that is what I was planning on putting in. I did flush the lines before I put it back together. I couldn't get the lines off of the condenser (was twisting the tubing where they hook up even using 2 wrenches) so left it hooked up and flushed the long line from the back to the front threw the condenser at the same time. seamed to work fine got some oily fluid out then went clear. After flushing the lines I ran dry air threw them for 30 minutes each line till I had clean air coming out. 

Also wondering if I could have the wrong expansion valve? I used the only one I could find with the correct fitting sizes but it was for a John Deere tractor.

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16 hours ago, Ivan K said:

Kevin, when I replaced my expansion valve, I got it from truckair.com, the one circled below, 1 1/2 ton.

Screenshot_20220603-154315_Gallery.jpg

I'll check that out and see how it compares to the one I have on it. Your fitting sizes look the same as mine but I can't remember what the ton rating was. 

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I would suggest that you may want to acquire another set of gauges just to confirm the gauges you are using are working properly and accurate.

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